Posts

Answer from a manufacturer

I sent my thesis to most of the manufacturers of PPE and one of them wrote an answer with a couple of arguments, why the lifespan should be limited. He gave permission to publish them anonymously and shortened. He said, it is his personal opinion and not approved by his company. I hope I did not change his ideas by shortening. Reasons for a limited lifespan Argument 1 Murphys Law: Storage and transportation increases the risk over the time that unforeseeable things happen: Chemical contamination, dirt, UV Radiation,… Argument 2 “Normal” users are no experts in using PPE correctly. Therefore one can assume that we see negative influences due to misuse: (little falls, bending effects on carabiners,…) The normal user cannot assess these influences and when to discard the PPE. Argument 3 PPE Regulation, EN and UIAA require a clear “lifespan of the product or how to assess it”. Safety factors >2 are industry standard for riskproducts and therefore of course app...

Discard criteria of PPE - confirmend by science

Image
Result # 1.: Age/time is no discard criterion.   PPE does not degradiate over time to an extent that it becomes dangerous to use. Even 40 year old ropes ropes  are safe if the sheath is intact and the core is consistent. Only wear and/or destruction   Result # 2.: Webbing (tubular or flat) is not reliable if left in the outdoors. Slings which have been exposed to sun and wear for some years can fail under body weight (toprope, rappell ...). Result # 3.: Multiple bending around small diameters destroys the core of ropes. Permanent topropes in climbing gyms should used only for toprope purposes.  Do not use them for heavy loads like static factor 2 falls or tyrolian traverses. Result # 4.: A major fall or load does not reduce safety.  If the visual and tactile inspection shows no defects it is fit for use. Result # 5.: Following discard criteria are confirmed: All textile PPE: Chemicals, especially sulphur acid c...